Thematic choices are certainly important in runway collections.  It's quite fun to see what is inspiring designers each season and how they manifest that into something wearable.  We love to see a collection that makes a literary reference, or reminds us of a particular shape or color existing in nature.  What we hate though, is a collection that takes a theme too far into literal territory.

Dsquared clearly had Charlie's Angels on the brain.  For a design duo interested in cornering the glamazon market, this was a sensible choice.  But for we who look to Milan for a more refined sensuality, their S/S 09 collection was a bit too kitschy.  I found myself mistaking models for Carmen Electra.  Not to mention, they made 18-year-old Chanel Iman look as though she was actually born in the 70s.

At Iceberg, the 80s were back in full force with bra tops, criss-cross straps, and volume at the hips.  Very little was done to update these tawdry staples from fashion history's most horrific era.  It could be acceptable to draw inspiration from the 80s, if only Iceberg had put certain things to rest.  Like, say, ruched pants?

Worst of all had to be D&G.  Now that nautical clothing is practically becoming a seasonal staple, designers have got to tone it down.  D&G threw it all at us:  anchor imagery, nautical stripes, swimcaps.  I couldn't find which was up in this tidal wave of oceanic offerings.  Though diffusion lines are meant to be more lighthearted, this D&G collection could have used a splash of subtlety.

So, for all the references we see time and again in fashion, here's hoping to see a bit more imagination the next go round for these collections.

Story by Dana Poblete.

WE ALSO HATE: 80s TAILORING