“I really wasn’t very inspired this season,” said Marc Jacobs when asked about his inspiration for his Fall 2008 Ready-To-Wear collection. That statement speaks volumes, not only for Marc Jacobs’ lackluster collection, but for most other designers who showed in New York last week. Even my most favorite names—Phillip Lim, Matthew Williamson, Zac Posen—all left me feeling high and dry. It seems that designers are in a holding pattern right now; trying to find a new direction to go into, which is looking like a more sedate aesthetic. I can certainly appreciate that but I cannot appreciate being bored by fashion! I follow the runways each season, but not necessarily to get ahead of the curve. I do so because I simply find great beauty in clothes and look to them for inspiration for any facet of my life, not just dressing. But when even Marc Jacobs is reaching only for a handful of stardust, where should I look to get that spark I am always seeking?

Eureka! I had spent so much time anticipating the collections of my usual favorites, that I forgot that New York is a place where you can find anything you’re looking for. That includes the season’s most covetable clothes. I looked to the rising stars as well as a few seasoned artisans I’d previously felt indifferent towards to give me my fix. What I found were enough gems to make me keep believing that fashion isn’t dead just yet.

As I perused every single collection, I searched for those looks that gave me the heart palpitations I knew New York could induce. I found it in Jenni Kayne’s collection. An up-and-comer out of LA, she is the epitome of California cool and effortless chic. I adored not only the simplicity of the pieces, but the perfect styling. Her fresh perspective on glamour brings the art of dress-up to daytime dressing.

Benjamin Cho wowed me with his craftwork. His intricately and artfully constructed pieces were interesting and inventive. And some designers took a more mathematic approach, like Alexandre Herchcovitch and Vivienne Tam, whose designs had an element of geometry to them.

As I’ve mentioned in a previous article (A Few of My Favorite Things), I love this shift towards more masculine looks on the runways. With Band of Outsiders’ new line, Boy, girls can explore that side of themselves but still feel lady-like. Even Erin Fetherston, who perpetually designs for the girliest of girls, toughened it up by incorporating a bit of menswear. But she still sways into the feminine sphere by pairing baggy pants with romantic floral chiffon. These designers, along with Jenni Kayne, are ushering in a return to sportswear, which American designers have always been so skilled at.

In, the same realm, grunge is slowly creeping back. I have been waiting for a successful attempt at this for a few seasons now. Designers flirt with the idea but haven’t quite been able to make it stick the way Kurt Cobain and Kate Moss did so perfectly in the 90s. Preen and Alexander Wang did well in keeping it low-key but still high-fashion.

While I can’t help but wax optimistic over menswear and grunge, I was happy to see beautiful pieces from designers who are maintaining the status quo of girly frocks. The dress will always be my go-to, no matter how many baggy trousers or plaid patterns I collect. I loved the pretty prints at Rachel Comey and Karen Walker, as well as the usual flirtiness at Behnaz Sarafpour.

And just like that, I am inspired once again. It took some digging, but once I unearthed some of New York’s most fashion-forward collections, clothes became new again. I love how fashion can do that. One moment you are in the doldrums dressed in black, and the next moment you are discovering new ways to make your wardrobe shine.

By: Dana Poblete