I was having a bad food month. For a dining reviewer, this is the equivalent to having a bad hair day...for a month. Nothing could satisfy my turbulent tastebuds; dining out had become depressingly average. Then, out of this dark night rose a brilliant light. Literally.

Quietly bright and curiously huge, the neon-blue Beacon tower is a landmark of the rapidly evolving downtown Culver City dining scene. Like a giant lighthouse, it guides the food weary and wary across unpredictable culinary seas into its warm, waiting glow.

We found our way to Beacon on a chilly Wednesday evening, taking refuge in its' casually elegant vibe. Planting ourselves on a deep mahogany hued bench amidst flickering candlelight, we settled into crisp, contemporary comfort. Spurred into anticipation by the delighted cries of "So yummy! So fresh!" from our three beautiful hipster neighbors, we turned our attention to the menu.

Chefs Kazuto Matsusaka and Vicki Fan offer an intriguing array of traditional Asian dishes, spiked with the freshest contemporary ingredients. To my delight, every offering- from the Tasmanian Salmon Trout with stone ground grits and Chinese black beans to the Coconut Rice & Mango Brulee, boasted a rare, authentic ingredient or unique approach to a standard recipes.

The Sugar Snap Pea Salad was the first to float to our table. The plump, electric green peas burst open in my mouth, instantly recalling the home grown garden prizes of summer. Add a slight tang of radish, soothed by ultra-creamy Laura Chenel goat cheese and the subtle dimension of cashew nuts and the standard Caesar or mixed green salad were dead to me forever.

Beacon Roll

Next up: Kaki-Fry and Beacon Roll, two dynamic tastes of the sea. I'm not typically one for oysters, but these delicate creatures, topped with yuzu tartar sauce and swaddled in juicy lettuce harnessed the subtle, salty taste of the sea itself. My dining partner, an avid bacon supporter, was smitten by the Beacon roll and remained it the ‘bacon roll' after its smoky, salty essence.

Our euphoria rolled onward with the beautifully presented main courses. If you happen to be looking for a delicate twist on a favorite comfort food, I recommend trying the Grilled Organic Chicken. Excruciatingly tender, this thai-marinated bird rests in a salty green pool of mysterious yumminess that might find you shamelessly kissing your plate clean.

The Angel Hair Pasta was an excellent complement, with its exotic, earthy depth of mushrooms. I almost designated this dish boring...but just in time the sweet, intriguing shadow of jalapeno tickled the back of my throat and the satisfying crunch of cabbage turned me right around.

If not for my love affair with the world of sweets, I may have been tempted to stuff myself to bursting, just to encounter more of Beacons' refreshing creativity and flair.

Coconut Rice Mango Brulee: Tropical brulee heaven

C'est la vie...one must follow the cardinal rule and save room for dessert. My dear friends: If you do nothing else, please save room for the Coconut Rice and Mango Brulee. It is perfection: tender diced mango hugged by a creamy coconut rice tapioca sweetness served up on one of the adorable little mismatched dessert plates.

Beacon said farewell with a funny little spiky haired meringue tart which I could have eaten ten million of, despite the little Asian food baby happily kicking away in my belly. I found it hard to say farewell back...I was a little choked up with gratitude.

Thank you, Beacon, for your brilliance and your breathtaking brulee. When the seas get choppy again, I'll follow your light all the way home.

Beacon Restaurant

3280 Helms Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90034

(310) 838-7500

www.beacon-la.com

LUNCH

11:30am -2:00 pm Mon-Sat

DINNER

5:30-9:00 pm Sun, Tues, Wed

5:30-10:00pm Thur, Fri, Sat