Breakfast is a contact sport in Los Angeles but every now and again you stumble upon an experience so sublimely tranquil you wonder if perhaps you’ve wandered onto a sound stage. It’s so good, it can’t possibly be real. Where are the bedraggled masses in search of the closest Bloody Mary and Egg White Scramblette? Where’s the one hour wait? Sunday morning, as throngs begin to jockey for position all across the city, there is a docile wee alcove waiting for you: Prana.

Inconspicuously snuggled on Melrose Place (cue theme music, Grant Show and Andrew Shue) neighbored by tony boutiques and art galleries, is a scattering of outdoor tables and a long bench of heat lamped alternatives stretching across a thin railroad car sized space decorated with bamboo, cork upholstered banquets, wicker chairs and warm lighting. The street is tree lined, the sun dapples your al fresco table, Monique Lhuillier dresses luxuriate across the way and the Melrose Place Farmer’s Market (Sundays only) offers a humming backdrop as Prana serves up sophisticated, well executed breakfast fare that features this writer’s favorite condiment; Aioli.

Ahhhh, the magic of Aioli! Not to be confused with that redheaded stepchild, mayonnaise, Aioli is a creamy, rich blend of herbs, garlic, zests, seasonings, or any combination, all whipped into a mayo base to produce a new class of condiment and the Heavy Weight Champion on the Prana breakfast table is their Chili-Lime Aioli. Put it on eggs, dip your toast in, jeez, let’s try it on oatmeal…Prana churns out the best aioli I’ve ever tasted. So good, in fact, it defies a mere mention; it requires attention, reverence, and honor.

But you have to have something to put it on and, luckily, Prana whips up a mean Choose-Your-Own-Adventure scramble (or Omelette). You tell them how you like it and that’s how they’ll make it. Served with toast and a mini cauldron of Herbes de Provence potatoes, you can compose whatever ingredients your heart desires. On a recent trip, goat cheese, rustic mushrooms, and chili-lime aioli called my name. The result was spectacular. Smoky fire bombs of aioli collided with the soothing cream of goat cheese all met with the meatiness of a sautéed crimini mushrooms. How dare one forkful be that delicious? Equally scrumptious is grilled chicken, gorgonzola, onions, and egg whites topped, of course, with chili-lime aioli but be your own Julia Child and find your special secret combination. (Sidenote: all scrambles and omelettes are served with avocado on top so let them know if you’d rather abstain.) Cakes Benedict and Prana’s Crunchy French Toast (brioche coated in Cap’n Cunch) served with berry compote are other menu stand outs for those who don’t feel inspired to be culinarily creative. Honestly, I’m considering trying the French Toast with the Aioli and seeing what happens. I might have a new Sunday tradition on my hands.

Prana
650 N La Cienega Blvd (technically, but it’s actually on Melrose Place just off La Cienega)
Los Angeles, CA 90069
310.360.0551
Sun-Sat: 8am-10pm
www.pranacafela.com

There is a restaurant in Berkeley, CA that I adore called Cesar. They make incredible fries served with garlic aioli. This is my homage to them.

Shoestring Fries with Garlic Aioli
Serves 4-6
2 pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled
Kosher salt
2 to 4 cups canola or peanut oil for frying
1 bunch rosemary
1 bunch sage leaves
2 small cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
2 large egg yolks
1 1/4 cups extra-virgin olive oil

1. Fill a large bowl halfway with cold water and add two trays of ice cubes.
2. With a mandoline or vegetable slicer, using the julienne-slicing blade, cut the potatoes into 1/8-inch slivers and place in the ice water.
3. Let soak for 1 to 2 hours, making sure the water remains ice cold.
4. In a deep pot, heat at least 3 inches of oil to 375°F. (It's best to use a deep-fry or candy thermometer, but you can test the temperature by placing a shoestring slice of potato into the oil. If the sliver sizzles right away and doesn't burn, the oil is ready. Don't allow the oil to heat high enough to smoke.)
5. Drain and thoroughly dry the potatoes with paper towels.
6. Drop a small batch of the potatoes in the oil and cook until golden brown and crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes.
7. Remove with a skimmer or a slotted spoon onto the prepared plate and sprinkle liberally with kosher salt.
8. Drop rosemary and sage into oil and fry for 20 seconds or until translucent.
9. Transfer to paper towels to drain and sprinkle with salt.
10. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the garlic, mustard, lemon juice and egg yolks.
11. Pulse 4 to 5 times, until well blended.
12. Slowly add the olive oil in a thin steady stream until it's completely incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. The aioli should be the consistency of sour cream. If it becomes too thick, add 1 tablespoon water.
13. Season with salt and serve with shoestring potatoes and fried herbs.
14. Enjoy!