PACIFIC DINING CAR

Several months ago, I went on a mission to find a great steak. What I found was a host of great steaks, and now I'm happy to add another location to my list of recommended steak houses.

Pacific Dining Car
in Santa Monica simply delivers the goods. In the often over-sheiked restaurant world, it is possible to go out for a steak and find yourself in a place that resembles a nightclub, or maybe even the set of a photo shoot.

If good meat is one half of a steak house's appeal, than ambiance is the other half. The Dining Car décor consists of old-school elegance that feels like a private club while providing a relaxed environment for a nice night out alone or with a group. No bells, no whistles, and thankfully no test-tube shaped glasses with Cosmos in them.

The first large dining room is decorated entirely in red, while the second, smaller room is upholstered in light green. Humorous charcoal sketches hang on the walls and there is no overbearing music across the warmly lit restaurant. With bow-tied bus boys on hand, you might half-expect Sinatra to start singing in a corner. The only thing missing is a healthy cloud of smoke overhead, but this is still California.

Back to the first half of a steak house: meat. The Angus beef is marbled and juicy, whether it's the New York strip or the filet mignon. The rest of the menu is expectedly simple, with minestrone soup, a variety of salads, lobster tail and a collection of tasty sides. Try the macaroni and cheese along with the grilled asparagus or the baked potato.

For dessert, dive into the perfect Chocolate Soufflé, that is if there's any room in your stomach after 10 ounces of grilled meat and a whole potato. Meat and potatoes might actually be the best way to sum this place up. Pacific Dining Car holds on dearly to one tenet of steak houses: steak is stylish enough on its own, so don't let the restaurant get in the way.

Pacific Dining Car
2700 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica 90403
(310)453-4000

By Chris Boyd

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