Small plates, hard to find, non-descript locale and a rave winning dish called “Pig Candy”? What foodie isn’t intrigued? If you’re cool enough to have heard about Lou, the new semi-organic-wine-bar-meets-pseudo-tapas outlet in a slightly ominous strip mall on Vine, you’re cool enough to know, it ain’t all it’s cracked up to be.

Bypassing tried and true favorites Tere’s and Mario’s Peruvian, you’ll come to the intersection of Melrose and Vine with its crop of mini malls. Housed in one of these florescent lit, Laundromat rich establishments is a dark door that seems as innocuous as the next. If you look closely enough, overhead you’ll see a devastatingly simple sign that whispers “Lou”.

Step inside and you’re instantly transported to a mecca of claustrophobic cool. The design is excellent beyond reproach with splashy Warhol-esque curtains blotting the outside world, birch tree wall paper, low light and books on wine resting in cubes behind the bar. One long communal table (a seeming prerequisite for all new tapas restaurants these days) is surrounded by smaller tables for two or four on either side. Get ready to smush and don’t talk about anything you don’t want your neighbors to hear about. I was practically the third wheel on a first date taking place to my left. A trip to the bathroom feels like you’ve been let out of a cage, there’s suddenly so much room you almost don’t know what to do with yourself.

They don’t take reservations so the wait can be long but the wine list is well executed, researched and descriptive. Word to the wise, at all costs, avoid the Organic Beer! Don’t let the bartender trick you! Even a die hard microbrew lover would be hard pressed not to spit this swill directly on the floor. Wine really is the focus here with 35 options available for two ounce tastings, by the glass or bottle and Tuesday Flight Nights.

Once seated, the menu offers a selection of “Snacks”, “Salads”, “Cheese and charcuterie”, “Supper” and “Dessert”. Here’s the conundrum: Are they serving small plate tapas or dishes that are meant to be a meal? At the prices listed ($6-10 for snacks, $8-12 for salads and $12-19 for supper) I expect a dish that will serve as a meal. At Lou, sadly, I’m mistaken. Luckily, the food is largely delicious if unbearably overpriced.

Pig Candy, their claim to fame, is bite sized pieces of Niman Bacon, coated in brown sugar and cayenne pepper before being baked to a crisp, sugary finish. My two companions were reduced to blathering fools they were so disarmed by the tastiness. The menu at Lou changes based on the availability of ingredients from local growers and the popularity of dishes but Pig Candy is a year round fixture and their crowning achievement.

The Savory Tart with Wild Mushrooms, Green Garlic and Goat Cheese served with a lightly dressed (but too heavily salted) Frisee Salad is delicious, accented by the different notes each mushroom sang. Some are meaty, others smoky, others nutty. Mixed with the creamy goat cheese and thin yet toothy crust, the only complaint is finishing the dish in four bites and yearned for a second helping.

Warm Salad of Farro tossed with wilted Pea Tendrils, Roasted Winter Squash, Dried Cranberries and Roasted Hazelnuts, served with Blue Cheese Smeared Toast gives a new understanding of why the Romans considered this grain a feast. Robust and satisfying yet still clean and light, there is a perfect balance in each bite.

Niman Flat Iron Steak with Bistro Potatoes and Wild Arugula was another stand out and seemed to be the most popular dish of the night as plate after plate was seen exiting the kitchen. The steak is sauced with a light, sweet au jus, arriving medium rare, pink and tender with a surprisingly snappy outer crust. Bistro Potatoes are divine though also overly salted.

Lou is somewhat uneven. This is a wine bar after all and sometimes the food seems like the bastard stepchild. When bread was requested, it arrived stale and without butter. When butter was served, it came in foil wrapped pats, a la IHOP. Potato Leek Soup tastes like it came from the Pavilions across the street, the charcuterie plank was less than inspired and there seems to be a heavy reliance on both Frisee and Baby Arugula. Worst of all, only ten minutes after the hefty bill arrives, you might find you stomach growling. Luckily there’s a donut shop next door and Tere’s is only a block away. And you can still tell the cool kids you ate at Lou.

Lou
724 N Vine St
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Mon-Sat: 6pm-12am
323.962.6369

Here’s my rendition of the best dish Lou is currently serving:

Farro Salad
2 cups Farro, rinsed and drained (Brown Rice can be substituted)
5 cups water
1 package “Fresh Harvest Medley” from Trader Joe’s (or 3 cups of any combo of winter vegetables: yams, butternut squash, turnips, brussel sprouts, pumpkin, etc)
½ cup nuts (hazelnuts, pinenuts or walnuts are all good choices)
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup mixed dried cranberries, tart cherries and golden raisins
2 cups arugula
1 ½ tablespoons toasted walnut oil (or more olive oil)
Salt to taste

1. Preheat oven to 375.
2. Combine farro, salt, and water in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the farro is tender, 45 minutes to an hour.
3. Remove from heat, drain any excess water, and set aside.
4. While the farro is cooking, toss vegetables, nuts and thyme with olive oil and salt to taste.
5. Arrange in a single layer and roast until golden, about 25 minutes.
6. In a large bowl gently toss all ingredients with additional oil. Test for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
7. Enjoy!