The Meat on Marty's

Rodeo's to your right. Spago's but a block away. Beverly Hills proper is a triangular trifecta of spa-ing, splurging, and doing it to the 90210's. But it's summertime. And the inspiration to kick off your Choo's and slip into something flip-flop befits you. Go with it.

Meet Marty - an irresistible Brooklyn import with soda jerk background and a penchant for perfect dogs. Enter his new digs and immediately get swept away by an ebullient throwback kindness and retro fare unfussiness. Here it's kept simple. Buttermilk and lemon walls, eggshell chairs, striped awnings, and stainless steel fans circulating the waft that only a scintillating open fire grill can emit. Take it in, and take a seat.

We took ours outside, on a balmy summer twilight, my favorite time to dine al fresco. The menu is straight up and succinct. The Marty D's All Beef Hot Dog is kosher (can you hear my husband singing?); Sandy D's Chicken Sausage is spicy as all get out, and for my vegetarian friends, Jose D's Vegan Gourmet sausage. With its sun-dried tomato and basil composition, it sated my 21 month old, and was too good to not finish what she didn't. Scooter D's junior version is also available for the under twelve crowd. All are tucked into a warm artisan bun with assorted accoutrements; sautéed onions, horseradish coleslaw, Old World sauerkraut, and a smorgasbord of mustards.

The Coney Island Fries, served up in a dandy little cone, are seasoned, feather light, and hopelessly addictive. Cajun corn-on-the-cob: the edible equivalent of sinking your teeth into summer. Chili connoisseurs will not be disappointed: Marty's has substantial kick and a sprinkling of sharp cheddar. And what's a potato knish doing on the menu? Order and you'll understand. You could easily make a meal out of the sides here.

I washed mine down with a Fresh Strawberry Lemonade - good choice - with fresh berries floating about. And for dessert, while the frenzy of fountain specialties cried out to me, I was ultimately drawn to the Butter Cream Carrot Cake. There's a lot of good ice cream out there, but carrot cake can easily go dry and disastrous. Brought to us from the Buttercake Bakery-it danced with carrot shavings and finger licking frosting. Lamill roasted coffee provided an impressively strong complement.

With a 1953 Bastian Blessing vintage soda fountain and an authentic mint green malt maker, hearty helpings of happy food and a wait staff who's disposition mirrors such, Marty D's might just have you rethinking Pink is for berries and berries alone. Come sit on the sidewalk and sandwich your summer with an ice cream soda and a side of sunshine. That's the thing about classics, they can't help but be. Welcome to the neighborhood, Marty D.

By: Jolie Loeb

MARTY D's
230 South Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.273.7771
www.martyds.com