Like the Riddle of the Sphinx, Los Angeles is filled with mysterious quandaries. Why does Sierra Bonita and Sunset always smell like an overflowing port-a-potty? Why are people willing to wait over an hour for pancakes at the Griddle? Why will you have the most tantalizing dining experiences in an inconspicuous strip mall? Sushi Time is just such a perplexity.

My nose is overtaken by the soothing fragrance of drier sheets as I park my car in front of the Laundromat neighboring this sushi find. (As a possible scheduling opportunity, bring a few loads to do while you eat. It’s way better than re-reading a two week old LA Weekly.) Once inside, jazz floats around the eight cozy tables, gossip rags are stacked high for solitary diners, a small TV sits atop the refrigerator offering serve-yourself beverages, and Toshi, the sushi sensei behind the bar, is making quick work of the best albacore tuna sashimi you’ll have this side of $100 per person. The fish is fresh and buttery, lightly seared just around the edges, and topped with chopped scallion and a delicate miso vinaigrette.

Their bento boxes are piled high with choices like chicken teriyaki, typical but delicious, and miso glazed black cod, sweet and smoky, and your choice of cut roll. Toshi’s spicy tuna gives new meaning to a dish that has become so ubiquitous, it’s almost laughable. At Sushi Time, the spicy tuna is dense with flavor and heat, which is even more exceptional in a hand roll, nuzzling up to the bite of daikon sprouts and soothing cucumber.

The staff that greets and cares for each guest is attentive and friendly; they make you feel almost as comforted as the steaming bowls of Udon the kitchen produces. Don’t be afraid of the hot pepper flakes they offer as an addition, they are miraculous. Meant to be slurped and enjoyed loudly, you don’t have much choice. The noodles are thick and perfectly al dente, the broth is hearty and rich and, if you ask nicely, they’ll throw some tofu in as well.

Sushi Time is one of the few exceptions to the “You Get What You Pay For” Rule. Here you get remarkably pleasant service, fish that tastes like it should still be flopping around on your chopsticks, satisfying bento dinners, and real sushi craftsmanship…and it’s cheap! Even when on a sushi bender, you’ll escape for about $20 per person. It’s the perfect third date locale; it’s not too showy, not too pricey, you’re guaranteed a great meal, the music is fantastic, and, if your date complains about the locale, you know you’ve got someone high maintenance on your hands, quite the opposite of Toshi, Sushi Time’s sushi chef and owner.

You know the Sushi Nazi in the Valley? Here is the antithesis. You don’t like avocado in your California Roll? You don’t have to have it. You want a chicken teriyaki roll? You got it! You want a roll with no rice? Done! You want sushi with no fish? No problem!

Regardless of what you choose to order, each morsel delivered to your table is made with care, joy, and the freshest ingredients. You might be sitting in a strip mall, watching Wheel of Fortune while traffic whizzes past along Beverly but in one breathtaking bite, it’s clear, there is no time like Sushi Time.

Sushi Time
8103 ½ Beverly Blvd
(Northwest corner of Beverly and Crescent Heights)
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.658.6700

Hours:
Lunch-
Mon-Sat 11:45am-2:45pm

Dinner-
Mon-Sat 5:30-9:30pm

If you want the sushi experience, but don’t have the sushi time, here’s a recipe to try at home. It doesn’t require rice, nori, rolling mats, or too much time but its delicious and a crowd pleaser, perfect for dinner parties.

Spicy Tuna Tartar on Cucumber Rounds:
Makes 3 dozen

½ lb Sushi grade ahi tuna, finely chopped (Santa Monica Seafood: 1205 Colorado Ave. Santa Monica, CA 90404, has an excellent pre-packaged, chopped ahi tuna for sale.)
¼ cup good quality mayonnaise
¼ cup low sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon/or to taste chili garlic paste (preferably Rooster)
4 tablespoons (1 bunch) chives, snipped
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
2 Japanese cucumbers (crackers can be substituted)

Additional chives and sesame seeds for garnish

1. If you bought tuna that wasn’t chopped, chop it. If you bought it from Santa Monica Seafood, their dice is a little big…so re-chop it.
2. In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients except for cucumbers. Mix well, cover and refrigerate while cucumbers are sliced.
3. Wash cucumbers and slice into ½ inch thick rounds, thick enough to support a small mound of tuna tartar.
4. Remove tuna from refrigerator.
5. Now, you can either go the Lazy Man’s Route (which I am quite a fan of) and put the tuna in a pretty bowl surrounded by cucumber slices (or crackers), call it Nouveau Riche Chips and Dip and garnish with some snipped chives OR you can top each cucumber round with a small helping of tuna and garnish with chives and sesame seeds so there’s less work involved for others but more for you.
6. Enjoy!