Hokusai Restaurant in Beverly Hills is named after the artist Katsushika Hokusai, revered throughout the world for his famous landscape The Great Wave. In Los Angeles, Hokusai Restaurant is revered for the culinary masterpieces Executive Chefs Charlie Nagase and Koji Matsuzaki create. Here you will find Japanese cuisine artfully infused with French influences. Dining at Hokusai is a study in balance- the art of Yin and Yang.

Even the décor is artistically balanced-- it is stunning, yet serene, magnificent yet subtle. Bamboo paneled walls and cozy leather banquettes are anchored by a floor to ceiling black glass monolith in the center of the dining room. Inside the monolith is a semi-private booth that could serve as the backdrop for any special occasion.

After we were seated, we had the pleasure of a visit with General Manager and partner Tiger Nakawake. This man is the definition of a generous host. Although the restaurant was busy, he patiently described his favorite dishes and his idea of a perfect Japanese meal. His concept is also about balance, and he recommended that we order items from the land and the sea, both cooked and raw. He takes great delight in creating "Kaiseki," a selection of several small plate dishes that highlight the restaurant's best offerings. This is available upon request and if you want something really special, ask for the Kaiseki.

We began our meal with a flight of three different sakes. If you are looking for an unusual experience, I suggest you sample sake, as you will surely develop a new appreciation for the subtleties of the different varieties. Some of the sakes they have at Hokusai are not available outside of Japan, so take advantage of the flight to have something truly unique.

For starters we ordered the Hamachi TKO, an appetizer of generously sliced yellowtail sashimi with habanero and serrano chilies, and a soy vinaigrette. Let me tell you, these were not the nearly transparent slices of fish some L.A. eateries call sashimi. This was Sashimi with a capital S, thick and buttery and uber fresh. Each slice was topped with the finest slivers of the peppers and lightly seasoned with the vinaigrette. The cool fish (yang), the spicy chili (yin), and the mellow sauce all balanced itself perfectly on the palette. To complement the sea we ordered the sautéed Shishito peppers, garnished with sea salt. These are mild chilies with a delicate, earthy flavor. They make a great appetizer- satisfying but not too filling.

We also sampled a selection of cut rolls. The Hokusai roll featured toro, jalapeno, and cucumber, wrapped in rice and crunchy little rice balls. It was a fresh twist on a traditional classic. The Mr. Ed roll could have been a meal in itself, there was so much salmon, tuna, and yellowtail stuffed inside. This also had a hint of jalapeno and was wrapped in paper-thin daikon radish, which balanced the jalapeno nicely. But the KJ-Rock roll was the star. It was an entire baked lobster tail with asparagus, sesame paste and chili oil- truly rockin'.

One of Chef Nagase's signature dishes is the Squid pasta. The squid is sliced to resemble penne pasta and is sautéed with shitake mushrooms and a touch of garlic. The texture of this dish is amazing. The squid is tender and delicate and the flavor of the shitake compliments the sweet squid. This is a special order item, but Tiger aims to please and will accommodate your request. Another must-try item is the Kobe cheek stew, simmered for eight hours in soy, cabernet sauvignon and veal stock. This is a sensational balance of East meets West and is served with potatoes and vegetables. It truly melts in your mouth.

I can't speak highly enough of this restaurant. The service is sublime- I'm inclined to believe they all have ESP, because they anticipated our every need without hovering.

Did I mention the gorgeous bar? Make sure you drop in before your meal for an aperitif, or get there for the happy hour specials. With the holidays coming, this would be an ideal location for the office cocktail party.

Hokusai Restaurant
8400 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323.782.9717

M-F 11:30am - 2:30pm
M-SAT 5:30pm - 10:00pm
SUN 5:30pm - 10:00pm

Happy Hour M-SAT 5:00pm - 7:00pm

kat@la2day.com