"Two Dudes" on the quest for culinary greatness! This, in essence, is the backbone of Animal, the newest restaurant edition to the hip Hollywood streets. You may have caught these scruffy, young chefs/owners (who go by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo) on their various stints on the Food Network, their Iron Chef America appearance, or perhaps their recent cookbook entitled, Two Dudes, One Pan. Novice or not, the latest venture of these rising, unconventional stars is the protein-packing, ass-inducing, brow-sweating, panty-soaking, butcher's wet-dream...Animal!

I have often considered the "Pig" the king of beasts. Pork can be lean, crispy, greasy, fatty, or salty; but no matter how it's served, it always feels naughty to eat it. Bacon is the moral equivalent to a weekend in Vegas. Animal serves "Babe" in multiple forms with such respect and integrity for the whole animal; it's like Bubba Gump: we've got Bacon Cream, Pancetta Vinaigrette, Pork Ribs, Pork Belly, Braised Pork Shoulder, and a Bacon-Chocolate Crunch Bar for dessert. Which reminds me: do not ask your fickle-eating companions to dine with you at Animal (a.k.a. sorry vegetarians, can't sit here), because they will get a huge dose of rejection. "No Modifications Whatsoever"...so all my plant-loving friends can meet me on another warm LA day at Urth Café or Real Food Daily; only hardcore, carnivorous predators allowed, but converts welcome.

If this sounds a little extreme, it's only because true foodies take this stuff very seriously. It's like a rock band; their music can't be structured and they won't let anybody else tell them how to play it. That's why I have a lot of respect for these down-to-earth dudes, because they are from the old school of genius cooking: don't try pleasing everybody else, please yourself and it will show in your food... No compromise, no conforming, just new, exciting, delicious concoctions.

The Food!

I decided to taste multiple small plates to get the most out of one trip to Animal (and let me preface by saying they were all good!). I started with the Heirloom Tomatoes & Beets with feta cheese, smashed kalamata olives, and pickled onions, followed by the Panko Crusted Sweetbreads with butter beans, bacon cream, and caramel jus. The combination of sweet, salty, and crunchy is perfect in this dish; I didn't want it to end.

Next up was the Melted Petite Basque (a very decadent French cheese) with Fra'mani chorizo sliced thinly and garlic bread for dipping. Then I got to try one of their most popular dishes, the Pork Belly with Asian slaw, orange glaze, and peanuts. This scrumptious slab of meat melts in your mouth faster than a popsicle in July. Finally, my version of dessert was the savory, yet sweet, Foie Gras, with bacon of course, French toast, and maple syrup. It's like having the breakfast of a very spoiled queen, and who doesn't love breakfast for dinner?

On my next trip to Animal it will be Entrees only, and I will most likely attempt the Flat Iron Steak or the Quail Fry. And did I mention the wine list? It wasn't amazing, but it was simple; it fit the food, and there were at least 5 wines by the glass that I knew I would enjoy...it is so hard to be able to say that with most LA wine lists. I pray to all Culinary Freaks, Geeks, and Lovers of the Craft...drag yourself over to Fairfax Ave. (to the small restaurant space with no sign in front of it), pull up a chair to some beautifully distressed wooden tables, enjoy consistent and friendly service, and dine on one of the best meals you'll have all season.

THE DETAILS: Animal
435 N. Fairfax Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.782.9225

Story by Erin Landsberg.

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