The first sight you see when you pass through the graceful doors of Il Grano restaurant, is a breathtaking platter of luscious heirloom tomatoes. A diverse and stunning circus of color and patterns, the tomatoes rest humbly, seducing you with their warm, sun-ripened scent and gleaming skins.

It is summer at Il Grano and the tomato reigns supreme.

Chef Salvatore Marino's tomato fascination originated at his grandparents' summer beach house in Napoli. During the idyllic, salty summers of his youth, Sal encountered the beautiful, blushing beauty that would become his darling forever: the tomato.

Today, he grows around 100 different varieties in his own organic home garden: a labor of love which Il Grano customers are fortunate enough to taste the fruits of. During the sunny summer months, relieved tomato lovers can set aside haunting thoughts of salmonella as they munch on these home grown treasures.

Chef Salvatore Marino at home in his garden...

Il Grano has been a favorite of locals and critics alike since it first opened over 10 years ago. Subtly nestled on Santa Monica Blvd, it's easy to miss. But once you've found it, you'll never lose sight again. Just ask the Mayor, a happy regular. With an ever evolving menu featuring the freshest seasonal ingredients, delightful homemade pasta and breads, and refreshingly light Italian cuisine, it's impossible not to become a devoted fan once you've swallowed your first bite.

In an attempt to truly ring in the summer sun, I stopped in to experience La Sagra del Pomodoro at Il Grano. Chef Marino's recently unveiled tomato tasting menu will be featured on Wednesdays throughout the summer. Whether you say tom-A-to or I say tom-ah-to, I feel it's pretty safe to say we should all be saying it exactly how Chef Sal does.

For the ultimate experience, clear your palette with a delicate rose...if only to be instantly transported to a sparkling summer veranda in your mind.

As I sunk into the warm, contemporary elegance of my buttery yellow booth and eyed the fresh farmers market lilies glowing across the room, I felt the first faint stirrings of summer content...

From the subtlely moving garlic glow of the Sunrise Gazpacho to the wholly original finale of Tomato Sorbet, the tomato shone brightly across all acts.

Delicate droplets of currant tomatoes added an adorably sweet burst to the dreamy envelope of burrata highlighted in the rainbow of color that was the Heirloom Tomato Salad. Gleaming red pomodorini del pendolo and fresh emerald basil shone out from the mouthwatering, saucy cloak of the Caramelle.

My favorite dish of the meal, this Caramelle or ‘candy-wrapped pasta' won points for the hearty, yet somehow delicate presentation, the salty chewiness of it's cheesy interior, and the perfectly al dente pasta vessel binding it all together. Pure, yummy comfort.

Soaking up heavenly olive oil and sauce with a freshly baked, salt-sprinkled roll and cramming my brave spoon into every nook and cranny, it was clear that I was quickly gaining an apprecitation for the versatility of this remarkable fruit.

After the tomato extravaganza, I was treated to a preview of Chef Sal's famous crudo (Italian-style raw fish). A breath-taking, fuzzy little apricot, carefully selected from that mornings farmers market and brilliantly paired with fresh, meltingly raw salmon and smooth apricot puree materialized in front of me. Who would have thought pink and orange, fish and fruit, could ever create such a magical union? One guess...

As I strode out into the summer sun with poetic tomato varietal names- San Marzano, Cherokee, Romeo's tear, Costoluto- floating through my head, I couldn't help but get the feeling that some of Chef Sal's tomato passion may have rubbed off on me. If so, I'll welcome it time and again, with open arms...and open mouth.

WHERE WOULD CHEF MARINO RATHER BE: IN THE KITCHEN OR THE GARDEN?

IL GRANO

11359 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025

Phone: 310-477-7886

LUNCH: Mon-Fri 11:45am-2:15pm

DINNER: Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30pm