One of these recent chilly nights, on the back of a blustery wind, autumn snuck in. With it, of course, arrived my annual craving for all things cozy and apple, all things hearty and hot and homemade. Happily, this uniquely east coast affliction has led me into many warm and welcoming dining rooms. And so it is I discovered LA darling, Campanille.

Hustling out of the wind and into this two-story, Tuscan style space, I had the impression of having stumbled into an old world courtyard. Wrought iron balconies, murmuring fountain, and skylight in the entryway give way to a set of cozier interior rooms with vaulted ceilings and candlelit tables. Peek through a quaint window into the sumptuous bread case of neighboring La Brea bakery, while one of their perfect sourdough loaves floats out to your table. Adore the tiny windows marked ‘wine' and ‘cheese' as you pour over the alluring menu, sipping on a Key West cocktail: a pleasant and remarkably smooth pomegranate variation of the Cosmo.

Long established as one of LA's top restaurants, Campanile is known for its rustic Cal-French cuisine, not to mention its extensive and superlative wine selection. Hearty, Mediterranean peasant dishes are delicately transformed by chef Mark Peels' practiced hands into light and satisfying modern experiences. My fall fervor was instantly calmed by the heart-warming, mouth-watering braised pork burgundy. Tender chunks of pork softened in red wine, swimming in a sea of pale, creamy polenta...perfection. Meltingly soft brandied apple and crunchy pork belly bits lended just the right touch of elegance to this hearty masterpiece of an entrée.

The serious prices, though, can create serious, difficult to meet expectations. Though the poached egg aspect of the frisee aux lardoons appetizer instantly piqued my curiosity, I could not force myself to fall in love with the tangle of frisee, haricot verts, and chewy little bacon morsels. No such problem, however, with the decadent slab of boca negra chocolate cake. Dark and dense, with a hint of bitterness, this dessert was perfected by a cold, creamy little hat of the best mint chocolate chip ice cream I've ever tasted.

Campanile is certainly not an easy place to say farewell to, especially with the luscious aromas of roasting meat wafting from the kitchen. Especially with the wind whistling outside and the knowledge of at least another ten dishes you're just dying to try lurking in the closed pages of the menu. The good news is that you've found it. So, on the next chilly autumn night you find yourself scurrying down La Brea, you'll know just where to find the right kind of warmth.

THE DETAILS: Campanille
624 S La Brea Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.0938.1447
*Check out Grilled Cheese Thursdays, Family Style Mondays, and Friday Night Flights!

Story by Alyssa Lloyd.

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