Photo by:  Brett Williams

The first thing you notice about Chef Salvatore Marino is his smile. Even more brilliant than his spotless white chef digs, it captures your heart instantly. As he glides purposefully around the airy, elegant dining room of Il Grano , he pauses often for quick, animated chats with customers. His good natured beam spreads warmly across a sea of contented diners as they munch heartily on contemporary Italian feasts prepared only moments ago by his gifted hands...

Watching Chef Marino, I was instantly reminded of the remarkable generosity, spunk, and utter sincerity of many of the chefs I'd met in Italy. I always adored the way they would rush out of the kitchen to bring you a dish and then wait- peeking over your shoulder, bursting with anticipation. I had yet to ever see even a glimpse of this kind of excitement and accessibility in the U.S...until Sal.

Of course, he did grow up in Naples. And he did receive his culinary training at two of Italy's finest Michelin restaurants where he learned his mantra: "always aim higher". Still, he is an American- an Angelino no less- somehow still smiling, still creating as joyfully as when he first opened Il Grano over ten years ago. In a fed-up country and a jaded town, such joy and devotion is nothing short of a precious miracle.

Sal is a true culinary artist: passionate, creative, and devoted. The motivation and ambition oozing out of him might be a little intense if it weren't tempered by such a playful spirit. When I asked him who his favorite type of person to cook for was, his answer was, "people who care". He doesn't mind picky eaters or vegetarians- their limitations inspire him to get creative. But if you're going to eat what Sal's cooking, you've got to care about food. Because he does.

He holds himself to the highest standards, often rising at four in the morning to make it to the markets and have his pick of the freshest catch and best organic produce. He works long hours, long weeks. But he loves it, finding inspiration everywhere.

His contemporary menu reflects his Neapolitan roots: seafood heavy, with a focus on lightness and quality. Don't expect the typical array of gut busting pasta dishes that has grown to typify American Italian cuisine (although his homemade pasta is one of his strengths). Chef Sal is known for shaking things up. One of the first to feature crudo, he has become known for his tasting menu of this Italian style raw fish. In the summer, his passion for tomatoes finds expression in Tomato Wednesdays, where countless varieties of home grown heirloom tomatoes find their way from his garden to the masterful plates at Il Grano.

Crudo: Italian style raw rish served artistically, with a variety of accompaniments

If you're looking for a place to elevate restore your faith in the true beauty of Italian cuisine, go to Il Grano. If you're looking for a chef to restore your faith in humanity, ask to meet Sal.

A moment with Sal...

How would you say the Italian philosophy on cooking and eating is different from the American?

The vast majority of Italians eat at home. Home cooking is usually more simple, genuine and a focal point of the Italian family life. When you cook, you pay more attention to what ingredients you are using, as opposed to picking some food to go or getting fast food. This emphasis on nutritional content fuels the process of attachment to the culture of cooking and eating. You start seeking local ingredients, being proud of your local purveyors and supporting them on every level, whether it's at the mercatino centrale (local open air markets) or at a high end gourmet shop selling local artisanal produce, meats & cheeses.

I find that this is happening in the US too now.

You're an avid gardener in tomato season. Where would you rather be- the kitchen or the garden?

The kitchen. Where the true potential of the tomato can be released.

The greatest compliment you could receive as a chef?

Having the guests come back for dinner again.

What did you have for breakfast today?

3 espresso and tastes of raw tuna at 5:15 am at the fish market.

If you could only eat one food for the rest of your days?

Pasta and wine.

If you could only make one food?

Pasta

One thing you think everyone should always have on hand in their kitchen?

Pasta.

Is there anything you feel as passionately about as cooking? Or even more passionately about?

Eating.

Do you get a chance to experience some of the culinary diversity in Los Angeles?

I don't eat out as much as I would like to. My only regulars are:

Mori Sushi. An true artist and fantastic chef.

Father's Office. Best bar food in town, and the beers of course.

La Maison du Pain on Pico, for the best croissants, on my way to work if I have time.

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