Mmmmm... Malibu. Land of perennial summers, infinite twilights, where all that glitters actually is gold. But the famed Malibu Pier has always remained a mystery to me. Abandoned and unloved, an unlikely landmark for a land so historically divine.

Until the Beachcomber came sweeping in like a late August breeze, upgrading an eyesore to an idyllic destination. Featuring ambiance to spare in an al fresco setting, this much needed makeover has managed to make Malibu just a notch more desirable. (As if allure was a problem.)

The option to dine indoors is there, but bypass it. Take a seat beneath the oversized sapphire and snow white canvas umbrellas symmetrically dotting a pristine sky, perched above the Pacific on uncharacteristically comfortable sanded wood stools. As sunset gives way to moonrise, table centerpieces charmingly come into play. Mason jars host tea lights situated inside a bath of seashells on each table. Enough to light the night. Cold? Blankets are provided but unnecessary. The lanterns of heat lamps cozy up the atmosphere just fine.

Calamari rarely appeals to me but something about the salty air and the symphonic jazz interrupted only by the crashing waves inspired it. Good call. My husband's tuna tacos were apparently too good to share, I'll just have to take his word. I followed up the calamari with Natural King Salmon, served atop triple mashed potatoes, a sprinkling of rainbow cauliflower, and those gorgeous baby carrots with the cute little haircuts. Fresh flowers garnish an already glorious plate. The salmon, both seasoned and seared to perfection.

You will also notice wild mushroom and truffle mac on the menu. Do what you have to do to fit this in. Order an extra entrée. Get it to share. Take it home if you have to. Baked spiral pasta tubes under a crisped truffle studded Parmesan cream crust, if the view didn't make you weep, this most certainly will.

And then the Gimme S'more, served as both a thematic and delicious finale. A toasted marshmallow and vanilla bean sundae, bursting out of a martini glass, adorned with an ample supply of Honey Maid grahams, and a hardened chocolate coating harkening Magic Shell memories.

The Beachcomber is but another jewel on the Malibu crown. With a wait staff as uplifting as the ocean air and a mood as light as the moon above, the only thing I didn't enjoy about this experience was leaving it. But because summer is sanctified year round in Malibu, nice to know, I won't have to.

THE DETAILS: The Beachcomber at Malibu PIer
23000 Pacific Coast Highway
Malibu, CA 90265
310.456.9800
www.thebeachcombercafe.com

Story by Jolie Loeb.

STILL HUNGRY? EAT YOUR HEART OUT AT SOOT BULL JEEP!