I'm all about fresh produce. "Support your local growers" is what I always say. I like the way the crepe stand smells first thing on a Sunday morning and I always sample whatever they're serving up on a toothpick. But take that all away, and I'd still go faithfully-a-farmers-marketing if only to hook up with something fresh off the Röckenwagner truck. Tri-berry scone, anyone? Don't mind if I do.

Rumor has floated east from Abbot Kinney - Hans Röckenwagner had shut the doors on his Main Street landmark restaurant and opened a casual seaside sequel. 3 Square Café + Bakery is appropriately enigmatic. On a street of celebrated independence and catapulting creativity, it is only suitable that something worthy of shouting out loud sits quietly, without so much as a sign.

Ceiling-to-floor windows make the partition between dining inside and dining al fresco almost imperceptible. For a place that takes its food so seriously, you'd never know it from the casual ambient approach. Paper menus have a coffee stain or two. The patio is dog friendly. The overhang protects you from direct sun but lets just enough in to keep you cognizant of your environs. The breeze is salty, the air is clean, the porch is sunbathed and here comes my coffee. Suddenly my senses runneth over.

Hans takes a seat. You know those people who just vibe vacation? No matter what mood you were in previously, suddenly you're in Saint-Tropez? Hans has that remedial effect. He's charismatic, refined, and justly enjoying the abundant success of his newest beachside venture.

I was abundantly enjoying my Bircher Müesli.

Let's talk about this müesli for a moment. It's not for everybody but hot damn is it for me. In a summertime answer to oatmeal, I encourage it wildly. Golden raisins, tart raspberries, grated Granny Smiths, strawberry slivers, citrus wedges, hazelnuts and sunflower seeds all decorate this prized and prestigious recipe. Want it with non-fat milk? Order something else. You don't mess with the original.

The remaining German/Austrian fare is a veritable festival for the fanciful foodie: Crème Brulée French toast with Bananas Foster, Chicken hash with mushrooms, peppers, onions, basil and poached eggs, and their Huevos Rancheros appeared to be topping every table around me, so there must be something to them. Hans' favorite? Cheese and macaroni soufflé. Be still my heart, I hadn't even thought about dinner.

Aptly named, 3 Square serves three square meals for its providential patrons. Bask in the breakfast bounty with organic egg dishes and a whole adjacent bakery devoted to the sweet and savory delicacies of aforementioned Farmers Market fame. Artisan sandwiches headline the lunch fare featuring Hans' highly addictive (don't fight it) pretzel rolls, and dinner? Dine at dusk with a smorgasbord of soufflés: crab with lobster-butter sauce and mangoes; the proprietor favorite cheese and macaroni; and kiss it all goodnight with a Valrhona chocolate soufflé with chocolate pretzel sticks.

Look out Abbot Kinney. This one's bound to be habit forming.

By: Jolie Loeb

3 SQUARE CAFÉ + BAKERY
1121 Abbot Kinney
Venice, California 90291
310.399.6504
www.rockenwagner.com